Sunday, 11 December 2022

Fortean Traveller – Ros Beiaard, Dendermonde, Belgium

The mostly unremarkable Flemish city of Dendermonde, half way between Brussels and Antwerp, is one tourists normally wouldn't bother with. But every ten years (Covid permitting), over 80,000 descend on Dendermonde for the Ros Beiaard parade, named after its centrepiece, the red horse Beyard. This gloriously bonkers and very Belgian phenomenon involves a gigantic horse cavorting through the city, escorted by a considerable retinue including dancing giants. Occasionally the huge horse rears up, the four boys dressed as knights riding it raise their swords in the air, the crowd goes wild.



The Ros Beiaard on its "rounds" through Dendermonde, April 2022

The Ros Beiaard originates in the chivalric romance. The Four Sons of Aymon, a French-language work sung by the earliest of the proto-troubadours, was first written down around 1300. The Four Sons of Aymonwas an international bestseller in manuscript form before the age of printing in French, Dutch, German, English and Italian versions. A printed Dutch translation - Historie van den Vier Heemskinderen - appeared in 1508. William Caxton, who started England's first printing press, produced several English editions of The Right Plesaunt and Goodly Historie of the Foure Sons of Aymon, but the story never seems to have caught on here.

Most of the action of the story takes place around Dordogne and the Ardennes. Aymon of Dordogne is a loyal vassal of a fantasy version of the Emperor Charlemagne. Each of Aymon's sons - Ritsaert, Writsaert, Adelaert, and Reinout - receives a horse from him. Reinout is the strongest - so strong he accidentally kills one horse and maims another just by riding them. So Aymon takes Reinout to a castle where the much feared reddish-brown coloured stallion Beyard, who had "never had a master", was kept. Reinout faces Beyard, who rears up and kicks him over, he gets up again and "after a heroic battle" tames Beyard. (In other versions, Charlemagne gifts Reinout the horse.) Beyard was strong enough to carry all four sons on his back.



The sons of Aymon appear at Charlemagne's court, where in a brawl over a chess game, Reinout kills Charlemagne's son Louis in self-defence. The four sons are declared outlaw and flee to the castle of King Loup of Gascogne, escaping again on the huge horse after Loup betrays them.

There follow many adventures of the four sons and the horse Beyard, involving stays in and then escapes from castles. They hide out in the Ardennes forest and escape imprisonment by the wizard Maugis. Finally cornered by Charlemagne's forces in Aquitaine, a siege follows after which a deal is reached - the four sons surrender and are rehabilitated, Reinout gives up the horse Beyard, who has a stone tied to him and is thrown in a river and drowned. This event occurs where the River Schelde meets its tributary the River Denderhence the city of Dendermonde’s involvement. (Dendermonde means "the mouth of the Dender." The Ros Beiaard first appears as an entry in that city’s accounts for 1461.



The Ros Beiaard, with a stone tied to it, in his desperate death throes after being thrown into the River Dender.

Many of these elements of the story - knights fighting in the street, the proclamation of the Four Sons as outlaws, the escape from the wizard Maugis, a huge statue of a desperate, wide-eyed drowning horse flailing in a river – featured in spectacular carnival floats in the 2022 Ros Beiaard parade. There was even a battering ram pushed through the streets by medieval re-enactors and a gigantic open book in which a troubadour sat against an illuminated page of The History of the Horse Beyard and the Four Sons of Aymon, strumming his lute and declaiming from its verses.



A troubadour declaims verses from The Four Sons of Aymon from among its illuminated pages

The Ros Beiaard's normally a once-in-a-decade event, but Covid meant we'd had to wait "twelve long years" for the 2022 edition. Tickets for the 18,000 seats along the route sell out within hours. So the only way to see the "apotheosis" - the climax of the event in the Big Market square when Renaissance musketeers open fire on the gigantic horse - was to get press accreditation. Even then, I only got to see the "general rehearsal" night before the main event - there's no press allowed in the Big Market on the day of the Ros Beiaard itself. The police in their Thunderbirds-style forage caps arrived and banished most of the press pack to a platform in the corner of the square with a less good view.

When I signed up for my press accreditation, I agreed "not to startle the animals with brusque movements or flash photography". Little did I know at the time that the animals included over 150 heavy horses pulling the carnival floats, as well as a flock of geese trained to walk in single file and two Belgian mastiffs trained to pull little dog carts.



Belgian mastiffs pull carts in the Ros Beiaard, as they pulled ammunition carts in World War One


A flock of trained geese walk in formation past social housing in the back streets of Dendermonde. They and their trainers are celebrities who tour the festivals of Europe

While out and about in the streets in my "PERS" (press) bib, I was collared by a resident of the city, a Dendermondaar. He told me with great passion that as an outsider I couldn’t understand the fervour that Dendemondenaars had for "our horse," their Ros Beiaard. He told how townspeople in their seventies would turn up aware it may be their last chance to see the gigantic horse come by. There were many ancient local ladies with Zimmer frames or in wheelchairs, wrapped in emergency rain ponchos, who had already taken their seats along the route by early morning.



The author in their official Ros Beiaard Association "Press" waistcoat, in the Press Centre



My colleagues in the Press Pack, shortly before the police banished them to a platform at the edge of the Big Market Square.


On my way to the press centre before the parade, I suddenly saw ahead of me, silently emerging from a side street, the Ros Beiaard himself! The massive wooden horse was making his way to his parade starting point. He's tall enough that his dark brown head, carved from oak in the 16th century and decked with a plume in the red and white colours of the city, can touch spectators watching from first floor balconies. He wears a long equestrian coat that goes down to the ground. Under this coat you can just see twelve pairs of white trainers walking in short steps in unison, like a millipede.



The Ros Beiaard escorted through the streets by a band and an entourage of halberdiers. On the left is Kalleke Step, the jester, who leads the horse. The Fiddler (centre) sets the tempo for the march of the horse.



The strong men of the Pijnders guild escorting the horse

The Ros Beiaard is carried by twelve very strong men from the Pijnders Guild. Back in the day, these used to be market porters and pull boats into the their berths in the harbour on ropes. The Pijnders are selected five years ahead of the parade in The Wildmen Run, in which candidates strip to their underpants and glue feathers to themselves so they look like hairy wildmen and perform feats of strength. The big horse with four riders on it weighs almost a metric tonne, so his 12 bearers lift around 85kg each.

There are a total of 60 Pijnders, with the reserve shifts walking behind the horse. There's also a Pijnder pulling a handcart full of fortifying strong drinks. There are frequent shift changes in which the huge horse is raised on little trestle stools while one crew free themselves and another take their place.

Round the corner in one of the backstreets, the reuzen, the Guild Giants, stood waiting. They were slightly taller than the huge horse.

There are over 1500 giants in Belgium, with Dendermonde’s three "Guild Giants" among the best known. The oldest is Goliath, David's antagonist from the Old Testament. He wears a 16th century floppy hat and sports a villain’s moustache. Then there's Mars, the Roman god of war and The Indian, the latter sporting a peacock-feather headdress and carrying a bow and arrows. He's a 17th century take on fantastic tales of "Red Indians" emerging from the New World when it was still brand new. Both Goliath and Mars have swords with ornate handles hanging from their belts.

I followed the huge horse and its gigantic escort to Our Dear Lady Church, with the giants occasionally dancing, whirling like dervishes with their tunics billowing and their arms flopping by their sides. It being Sunday, there was a service in progress, which the Pijnders joined after parking the massive horse at the door. Passing local families lined up, holding up their babies and small dogs, to have their photos taken with the Ros Beiaard. A priest came out and blessed the Ros Beiaard and the Pijnders with quick sprinkle of holy water, declaring that the parade represented "solidarity".



Cavorting Guild Giants - Mars and Goliath



The Indian, Mars and Goliath

Then it was on to a cordoned-off road on the edge of town, where the Ros Beiaard, giants and all were again parked awaiting the considerable number of horse-drawn carnival floats and trained animals, marching bands and - in a rare nod to the 21st century - an interpretive dance troupe re-enacting in the streets Reinout's chess game with Louis. People pushed along their accompanying sound system in a vast wheeled box. There were more townsfolk on horseback in Medieval attire than you could shake a stick at. Each float was followed by a suitably costumed volunteer pulling a small trailer and carrying a shovel to scoop up the horse poop.

Endless marching bands played over and over The Ros Beiaard Song. The crowd frequently sang along, as did some of the regional press photographers while at work. In local dialect as spoken in 1754, the song describes how the "beautiful horse" and the boys sitting on it is the most beautiful sight in the world, and - more importantly, how the citizens of the rival city of Aalst further down the river Dender, "are so angry/Because the Ros Beiaard is going past…"

Showing contempt for people from Aalst is an important element of Dendenmondenaar identity. Turning ancient insults from Aalstenaars into badges of honour is a Dendermonde thing. "Shipdraggers" was one such taunt, as was kopvleeseters - "head meat eaters", cheapskates who ate the meat from animal’s heads. This resulted in a surreal float in which costumed kopvleeseters prepared the local cold meat delicacy and served it up to the audience as canapes.

The mayor put in an appearance as "Kalleke Step", the jester, showed up. Costumed in the city's red and white colours, the jester pulled the horse along by long ribbons while throwing various capers, handstands being his speciality. With him was the fiddler, walking to the left of the Ros Beiaard, playing The Ros Beiaard Song all afternoon. An honour guard of halberdiers formed up the rear.

Finally, the Heemskinderen, the Four Sons of Aymon, arrived after being made ready in the doctor's surgery over the road. Tradition dictates they must be four brothers, with no sisters in between. Dendermonde has ten years to find such a family, even today they somehow still manage it. Clad in spray-painted plastic and zinc armour and plumed helmets, one by one the four helped by the chief of the Pijnders, ascended a ladder to climb onto the back of the huge horse - in the rain, with the youngest in front.



Assisted by the chief of the Pijnders, one of the Heemskinderen takes his place on the back of the "beautiful horse"

And then we were off! It's hard to describe just how bizarre the parade was - I often felt I'd stumbled into a deleted scene from Monty Python and the Holy Grail that had been cut because it was too weird. (Especially the bit with the stilt-walking knights!) There were floats celebrating footnotes in Dendermonde's history - the opening of its law courts, the building of its city walls, a local farmer's daughter becoming Duchess of Burgundy and so on. Town criers are big in Belgium (they'd borrowed some from as far away as Ghent,) some of these went ahead of each float declaiming in rhyming couplets what these represented.



Stilt-walking knights!

Occasionally the huge horse on its "rounds" through the city would turn and tilt forward, as if rearing up towards the crowd. The Heemskinderen would raise their swords, the crowd would go wild. At one point I felt a tap on my shoulder and it was the random Dendemondenaar who'd collared my earlier, he said, "It was worth it, wasn't it?"

You could tell the giants and the huge horse were approaching when a posse of strange armless brown furry figures appeared, with vaguely wolf-like heads with clacking jaws. They ran amongst the crowd threatening them with their teeth - snap, snap, snap! These carnival velociraptors are the knaptanden, the "snapping teeth". Not even police officers are immune from their harassment.

They're actually teenage boys looking through the necks of the costumes, operating a spring-loaded jaw mechanism built on top. Cryptozoology enthusiasts will be interested to note they're inspired by a very big fish seen in the local river in the 16th century. Their name is believed to be another ancient insult thrown at the townsfolk by the people of Aalst.



The knaptanden harrass spectators

Ticket-holders only were allowed into the Big Market Square for the "apotheosis" of the Ros Beiaard, but I'd got to see its dress rehearsal the previous night, from a very long way off. With the ancient Town Hall decked with the flags of Burgundy, medieval England and the Hapsburg Empire, the apotheosis involved the jester and the fiddler leading the gigantic horse into the square.

There the horse reared up in front of a phalanx of the Schuttersgilden - the shooter's guilds - Dendermonde's Renaissance citizen's militia, a bit like Rembrandt's Night Watch, only even older. Now they're all off-duty firemen. At the climax of the parade, the Schuttersgilden lined up and fired from shotguns three volleys-worth of gunpowder only into the air, aiming at the Red Horse Beyard. (Earplugs were provided at the press centre.) Three times they opened fire on the Ros Beiaard and prevented him from leaving, until they eventually gave way, allowing him to break through their cordon to escape from the Big Market. Each time the enormous horse reared up, the crowd went wild.





The apotheosis of the Ros Beiaard, from the dress rehearshal at night

The parade finally ended at the massive old brick former army barracks on Barrack Street. I waited there for the ceremony in which the Ros Beiaard, the giants and all the floats were put back into storage for the next decade. Before long, the marching bands, the snapping-jawed knaptanden, the whirling dervish giants and the huge horse itself showed up. As the huge horse came down the street, it stopped and reared up, the crowd went absolutely wild.

The big horse then began to move through the huge arched doorway of the barracks. The crowd booed - as this meant it would all be over soon. The huge horse hesitated, moved back and forth as if unsettled, then marched out of the barracks, and up and down as if at speed, as if cantering, occasionally rearing up, with the Heems Children waving their swords in the air, at which point the crowd went wild again.

Then the giants, starting with The Indian, danced, walked toward the big horse. He reared at them, the crowd went wild, the giant walked past the horse and into the barracks. There followed half an hour of the big horse teasing the crowd by trotting up and down in front of the barracks. He appeared to go into the arch a couple of times, to booing, then he came out again, charged up and down, reared (the crowd went wild and sang The Ros Beiaard Song), before he finally backed into the huge arch, the Schuttersgilden launched a final couple of loud volleys at him above their heads. To boos, Dendermonde's "beautiful horse" finally disappeared form view and the doors finally closed.





The Ros Beiaard's swan song outside the Old Barracks before he put into storage for another decade

The next Ros Beiaard is in May 2030.

Dendermonde has The Katuit, a shorter parade featuring just the Guild Giants and the knaptanden every year - the next is in August 2023.

The next Wildemannenloop (Wildmen Run), with feats of strength to select the Pijnders, is planned for - provisionally - August 2025.

There is a permanent display of giant blown-up photos of elements from the Ros Beiaard on the walls of the old barracks in Kazernestraat,, Dendermonde. There is a permanent exhibition of Ros Beiaard artefacts in the Vleeshuismuseum (Butchers' Hall), Grote Markt, Dendermonde.

© Words and photos Matt Salusbury 2022

Flag wavers throw the official Ros Beiaard flag on the air




The escape of the Heemskinderen from the castle of the wizard Mauigis, complete with revolving astrolabe, immortalised in a horse-drawn float in the 2022 Ros Beiaard



The Knaptenden again



Medieval equestrianism in the streets of Dendermonde



A medieval battering ram dragged through the streets, referencing Charlemagne's siege of the castle where the Four Sons of Aymon sought shelter in Aquitaine.

Saturday, 13 August 2022

The Talking Cross

(This article first appeared in Fortean Times)



The flag of the Cruzob, the Mayan state founded by the followers of the Talking Cross

Around 1841 the Yucutecos, the Creole population of the Yucatan peninsula, broke with Mexico. The Mayan population of Yucatan soon rose up against their Creole overlords, beginning a fifty-year conflict. The Mayans quickly drove the Creoles back to the north of the peninsula before abandoning their siege when the corn-planting season started. Yucuteco reinforcements pushed the Mayans into the jungles of the south and east of the peninsula.

A band of Mayan insurgents took refuge around a small spring at Chan Santa Cruz, ("the Little Sacred Cross"), where a mahogany tree grew at the edge of a cave. The tree’s trunk bore several carved cross shapes a few inches high. At least one of these carved crosses appeared to produce sounds. The Cult of the Talking Cross was born, which inspired the Mayans to at least 50 years of resistance against first the Yucutecos and then the United Mexican States. The bizarre Talking Cross faith survived at least three incidents of capture or destruction of its talking crosses and possibly up to three exposures of ventriloquist fraud. And the Talking Cross whistled!

Juan de la Cruz Puc first heard the cross talk, although others could hear it forming sounds. Puc shared with his neighbour Manuel Nahuat what the cross had told him. Nahuat, who was a ventriloquist, projected his voice so that everyone could hear the words from the Talking Cross. Proclamations by letter also appeared, signed "San Juan de la Cruz", St John of the Cross. The Proclamation of St John of 1850 founded the rebel Mayan regime known as the Cruzob with Chan Santa Cruz as its capital.

The Talking Cross – now freestanding, much bigger and made of wood – was moved to a large church built to house it, the Balam Na (the "House of the Jaguar" or “House of the Priest”). In the darkened interior of the Balam Na, the booming voice of the Talking Cross issued pronouncements to a prostrate congregation. It’s unclear how much of the current church on the site is from the original.

The Talking Cross's earliest verbal pronouncement, in December 1850, said “The Whites will never win... These people of the Cross who will win". It ordered an attack on the nearest Yucuteco garrison at Kampochche. It was a disaster. A promised immunity to bullets didn’t materialise, the Mayans were driven off with heavy losses. The Yucutecos attacked Chan Santa Cruz in March 1851, seizing the Talking Crosses (there were now two of these) and killing Nahuat.

But the Yucutecos lacked the forces to occupy the Cruzob capital. A new Talking Cross and two other crosses immediately appeared at the shrine by the spring. Puc now claimed the Talking Cross spoke via "three mysterious personages" with himself as interpreter or secretary, and that the Yucutecos "will be severely punished." Bankrupt and facing the prospect of endless war with the Maya, the Yucutecos eventually accepted Mexican sovereignty in 1853, so it was Mexico that the Cruzob now fought. English visitors and Mexican prisoners described the Talking Cross being taken into battle by the Cruzob armies.

The Cruzob’s survival was assisted by the neighbouring little colony of British Honduras (now Belize). With their tiny garrison, the British realised they stood a better change of survival against the much bigger Mexico if a Mayan state prevailed. So the British for a time supplied arms to Chan Santa Cruz. In a letter to the "magistrates of Belize", a Cruzob leader wrote, "the Holy Cross begs you to give them powder and shot and all the implements of war."





The Balam Na today. Adam Jones Phd, Wikimedia Commons

While the Latinos had for centuries refused to ordain Mayans as priests, Mayans now served as priests to their own congregations, but their version of worship became only loosely based on mainstream Catholicism. In Cruzob cosmology, there were several versions of God, there were angels and other lesser gods, elementals such as the jaguar and also the "Beautiful Grandmother" – equivalent to the Virgin of Guadeloupe.

Venancio Puc emerged as the new "interpreter" of the Cross and tatich (Pope). The Talking Cross now spoke to Venancio Puc and occasionally to his generals, with his son Atanacio Puc performing ventriloquism via a barrel-shaped device in a hidden space near the Talking Cross. The cross spoke sometimes in words, sometimes in a sharp, whistling voice – a "fine, thin whistle" according to one witness.

Lieutenant Plumridge of the British Army described being made to wait all day and much of the night until “God came”, when a "rather weak voice... which seemed to originate in the midst of the air" told them "If the English want a fight, let them come... and I will dispose of (them) at once." A escaped Mexican army prisoner described being led to the Cross, which ordered him to repay the 28 pesos he’d won playing cards with his guards and to receive 25 lashes.

In 1867 the tatich was a mezito, Gerardo de Castillo, who admitted to the superintendent of Belize that "Divine Providence"had caused himself and colleagues to seize power from Venancio Puc and kill him. De Castillo admitted that the voice had been produced by Puc’s son, and explained that "the use of ventriloquism to make the cross speak was the work of evil men and a thing of the past". While the tatich still maintained the holiness of the Talking Cross, his admission had lost the cult much of its power. San Juan still communicated his proclamations by letter.

Cruzob authority was now fragmenting. Travellers to Tulum – an ancient pyramid and fortress complex on the coast North of Chan Santa Cruz – described in 1866 seeing there another church shrouded in darkness where the high priest and his wife were patrons of the cross, which talked in a whistling voice to a kneeling congregation. There were by then other Mayan statelets where the "parents" of the Speaking Cross kept it in their houses. By 1872 a third rival centre of Talking Cross worship appeared at San Antonio Muyil. In the 1890s there were at least four such competing Talking Cross centres. The Mayan community at Ixchanha rejected the Cruzob’s break with traditional Catholicism, preferring to accept nominal recognition of the Mexican state. The Cruzob made war on all of these Talking Cross variants. By 1895 Chan Santa Cruz was all but abandoned, still guarded for visits by Cruzob officials, who had reportedly relocated their base somewhere to the northwest.





A contemporary map of Yacutan.

In 1901, a Mexican army under General Ignacio Bravo finally occupied Chan Santa Cruz for good, its troops bringing measles and smallpox which devastated the local population. Bravo's army reported discovering the hiding place near the Talking Cross where a ventriloquist could have hidden, their voice amplified by the barrel-type device. Maya guerrilla warfare against Mexico persisted, ending only with a formal peace treaty in 1935.

In 2002, the Mexican Government finally recognised the Church of the Talking Cross as a legitimate religion. A more moderate version of the Cult of the Talking Cross still exists. The spring where the Talking Cross first manifestedis a hangout for students, in a town now with the more secular name Felipe Carrillo Puerto. Some claim the cross at the spring continues to talk to this day.

It turns out the symbol of the cross long predated Christianity in the Yucatan anyway. Mayan cosmology features the yaxche (mahogany tree), the Tree of Life, the navel of the world, a straight tree vaguely in the form of the cross. In some representations of the yaxche, the cross shape is formed by a double-headed serpent spread out in its branches and by a bird perching atop the tree. The yaxche anchored the various parts of the universe in their place and spread from the earth into the heavens and reached with its roots down into the underworld. Amen!


Copyright Matt Salusbury 2022




Tulum, the ancient pre-Columbian Mayan temple and fortress complex on the coast where Mayan insurgents took refuge. Wikimedia Commons.



Update (04/08/2024) St Francis of Assisi could apparently not only "discern the secrets of the heart of creatures" but also talk with God and have a conversation woth a cross. Thomas of Celano's hagiography of him, The Remembrance of the Desire of a Soul, describes how he had a conversation with a talking cross at San Damiano. The cross on top of one of the churches there told St Francis, “Francis go and repair my house which as you can see is falling completely into ruin.” That alleged talking cross is now on display at the Basilica of Santa Clara at San Damiano.

Tuesday, 19 July 2022

Headless phantom coach horses


This article first appeared in Fortean Times.

There are a remarkable numbers of traditions from around the British Isles featuring phantom coaches. These phantom coaches are often driven by headless coachmen, sometimes with even the horses pulling the coach being headless too.

The village of Olney, Buckinghamshire, is allegedly the home of a phantom coach pulled by headless horses and with a decapitated driver. Kingston Russell House in Long Bredy, Dorset, is said to be haunted by a coach with a headless coachman, a headless footman and four headless passengers, pulled by a team of four headless horses. Headless horses driven by a headless coachman were said to emerge at midnight from a hole at Rowlands Hill in Wimborne, Dorset. Another phantom coach, with a headless lady passenger as well as a headless coachman driving headless horses, was alleged to ride around the site of a former court building in Stackpole Elidor, Dyfed. To look upon the phantom coach said to appear on Christmas Eve with a headless horses and a headless coachman at the reins, at Penrhyn, Cornwall, causes death, and so on.

Toby's Walk in Blythburgh, Suffolk is haunted by "Black Toby", Toby Gill, a Jamaican drummer of the 4th Dragoons regiment lynched by locals around 1750. In most versions of the story he walks the heath on foot, in some he drives a hearse to Hell, pulled by headless horses. Research by Joan Forman, local author of Haunted East Anglia, concluded that the coach with the headless horses is a later – 19th century – story that became conflated with Toby Gill.



A British dragoon roughly contemporary with Toby Gill, athough as a drummer he would have had a more colourful uniform. Out of copyright.



Toby's Walks beauty spot and picnic area, near Blythburgh, near the scene of where Toby Gill was lynched. It was closed in recent years by Suffolk Coastal District, citing frequent incidents of "dogging". Locals told me that there were one or two dogging incidents, and that the cash-strapped Council had used these an excuse to close the site to save money. Photo: Matt Salusbury



In one version of the "Black Toby" legend, Toby in his dragoon drummer's uniform drives a hearse (or a mail coach) to Hell, via Beccles. In other versions he is walking the heath in the civilian clothes he was found in.


There's a veritable cluster of phantom coach traditions around Bungay, Beccles and Oulton on the Suffolk-Norfolk border, each with a version in which the horses and sometimes the coachmen are headless, associated with local aristocrats and their stately homes.

The phantom coach with a headless coachman (no details on the headlessness of its horses) at Bungay and Geldeston is associated with the Bigod family. The phantom coach at Nursery Corner on the Beccles to Bungay Road is linked to the Blennerhassetts of Barsham Hall (now a ruin) and bears that family’s crest. In some versions it headless horses pull it all the way to Hassett's Tower in Norwich. The coach emerging from Roos Hall near Beccles, Suffolk, on Christmas Eve also has headless horses and sometimes headless coachmen.



The drive of Roos Hall, in Barsham near Beccles, from where a phantom coach linked to the local Blennerhassett family is said to emerge on Christmas Eve. In some versions of the story, the coach horses as well as the coachman are headless. Photo: Matt Salusbury.

Boulge Hall, near Woodbridge, Suffolk (not far from Sutton Hoo, with its Saxon horse burial, see here) has a tradition of a coach pulled by headless horses, said to convey either the temperamental "Queen of Hell" Mrs Short or Mr Fitzgerald, both former owners of the Hall – now a farm.

While headless ghosts sort of make sense as the souls of those executed by beheading, comparatively few coachmen were actually beheaded. Beheadings were usually reserved for high-profile figures. These were anyway out of fashion in the golden age of coachmen in the 18th and 19th centuries, with England’s last beheading happening in 1747. Headless coach horses, though, don’t make sense at all – horses weren't beheaded.



Site of the excavated Mound among the Anglo-Saxon burial mounds at Sutton Hoo, Suffolk. This mound contained a horse burial with a young warrior and a horse buried in full harness.

The recent discovery of an Iron Age chariot burial in Pocklington, East Yorkshire, (FT 295;14-15), may help explain some headless coach traditions. Archaeology at the The Iron Age burial site at Pocklington has already uncovered over 200 burials. These included the first Iron Age chariot burial discovered in England – unearthed in 2017, this included a young man with grave goods buried in a two-wheeled chariot and the complete skeletons of two horses in full harness, found buried as if pulling a chariot.

The following year, an excavation at a different part of the Pocklington site uncovered a barrow containing another Iron Age chariot burial, from around 100 BCE. In this burial, a "high-status" man in his forties or older was found crouched inside the chariot. The chariot itself, with its team of two horses, was buried as if the horses were leaping up out of the ground. Paula Ware of MAP Archaeological Practice told the Yorkshire Post their heads may have even protruded from the earth and been above ground.

The heads of the horses were at the point in the burial that was nearest the ground. It's likely they had been destroyed through centuries of ploughing, leaving behind the skeletons of two headless horses. Ploughing, along with natural erosion, is known to have destroyed or damaged many ancient barrows and tombs over the years – the antiquarians of the 18th century were already recording traditions of local "giant’s graves" that had disappeared. Any chariot burials that farmers stumbled across while ploughing may well have remained unrecorded. The grave goods of "high status" Iron Age warriors buried with their chariots would have been made of precious metals, it would have been tempting to walk off with the loot and cover up evidence of the burial.

Could superstitious folk of the 18th century have uncovered one such unrecorded chariot burial, with horses in full harness buried upright but with no heads, and interpreted it as headless horses pulling a coach? The counties associated with headless coach horse traditions listed above are also rich in Iron Age archaeology.

Thanks to Paranormal Database (www.paranormaldatabase.com), @manukenken and @HilaryRSparkles for headless horse intelligence. There are many more East Anglian phantom coaches, phantom coachmen, phantom coach horses (headless or otherwise), phantom horsemen and the phantom sounds of horses and coaches in my book Mystery Animals of Suffolk, available from bigcatsofsuffolk.com or via its distributor Bittern Books.


Update: (19/07/22) I have since had accounts of a phantom coach journeying between Harrow Hill and Long Compton, Warwickshire, report that both driver and horses are headless. The coach is most active in winter or after heavy rain. From Brazil comes the bizarre Mula-Sem-Cabeca, the phantom Headless Mule. This is said to be the ghost of a women who killed herself after having an illicit relationship with a priest. For some reason, the stump of the head of this dark-coloured headless mule is on fire.

Wednesday, 18 May 2022

Pallisy the potter

This feature first appeared in Fortean Times

In the beginning, the Earth spontaneously generated forms in rock, some of which resembled living organisms. Stone forms grew within stones. Just as living organisms above ground gave birth to living young, so the Earth itself produced subterranean stone simulacra of living organisms. As above, so below. That was how they came about – mostly.

Some fossil seashells on the tops of mountains were said to be formed by the stars. Swiss physician, zoologist and botanist Conrad Gesner (1516-1565) wrote that gems were earthly reminders of the jewelled heavenly City of God. Influential Persian philosopher Avicenna (Ibn Sina, 980-1037) stated that fossils were produced by vapours and exhalations in the depths of the earth, like gallstones and pearls.

Some fossils were assumed to be generated through astrological influences, or were "sports of nature", put there by a playful Mother Nature or by a time-travelling Satan to test men's faith. Other fossils were the bodies of the many people and animals that were collateral damage from and evidence for Biblical Flood, including the shells of sea creatures found at the summits of mountains.

Or fossils were just artefacts left by supernatural beings – such as the lethal darts and arrows of the fairy folk. Or fossil finds were "thunderstones" that fell from the sky, or the curled ram's horns adorning the brows of the god Amun, or the chakras from the centre of the hand of Vishnu. Some were the bones of human giants, as documented in Genesis - "There were giants in the earth in those days." In the earth, so presumably underground.



Jupiter Ammon (above), the Romanised version of the Egyptian god Amun, sporting the "Horns of Amun," probably based on ammonites. World Museum, Liverpool.


The horns of Amun, (below,) this time on the god Amun appearing as a ram protecting one of the kings of Egypt - British Museum, London.



Ammonites (top two rows) in the Horniman Museum, London. We now understand that ammonites are shelled marine invertebrates similar to the present-day nautilus.

Where fossils did look like the bones of animals that bore little resemblance to animals still alive, it was deduced that such animals were still extant, just awaiting discovery in a part of the world yet to be explored. The American Incognitium, whose fossilised bones were discovered in the Ohio River in 1740, displayed similarities to an elephant but with teeth suggesting a carnivorous diet. The backers of the Lewis and Clark transcontinental expedition that set out in 1805 were confident the Incognitium (later known as the mastodon) would be found alive and well by the explorers in the vast prairies of the American West.

Illustration showing Palissy, from a 19th-century Methodist hagiography published in London. Artist unknown, out of copyright.

There couldn't anyway have been much time for the animals still alive at the time of the fossil bones' discovery to have changed over the generations from something originally very different. There hadn’t been all that many generations in which to pass on characteristics in a universe in which most of human and natural history were packed into the four millennia between the Creation (on 4th October 4004 BC, as helpfully calculated by Bishop Ussher of Armagh) and the birth of Christ.

There wasn't even the expectation that fossils were once anything alive. The word "fossil" comes from the Latin fossilus, literally something dug up. Interesting-looking minerals, worked flints used by early humans and meteorites (FT 265) were all lumped together with what we today would define as fossils.

The idea that fossils were the petrified bones of long-dead animals, was quite the least fashionable explanation. The baggage of fossil folklore about fairy darts, fairy loaves, "tongue stones" and "thunder stones" didn't help - such old wives’ tales made natural philosophers wary of approaching the subject.

The great Aristotle, who had dominated the "natural philosophy" curriculum for centuries, could still do no wrong. Aristotle had dealt with the issue of fossils definitively inOn Generation and Corruption. Here he concluded that the starfish found turned to stone in the mountains had spontaneously formed and had come to life when the mountains "hardened", there followed much discourse about wetness and dryness and life and death. Aristotle’s idea of two extremes of "wet and dry" dominating the world were themselves informed by the pre-Socratic philosopher Xenophanes of Colophon, who lived from around 570BCE to 478BCE and whose works survive in commentaries by Hippolytus. Xenophanes argued that fluctuating extremes of wetness and dryness would result in the extinction of humankind, and later bring it back to life.

As evidence, Xenophanes cited fossilised fish and seaweed in Syracusian quarries, a bay leaf found in marble and impressions of “all kinds of marine life” far inland on Malta. He concluded that water must once have covered the Earth’s surface. Albertus Magnus in The Book of Minerals, the first major work on mineralogy, developed Aristotle's ideas. Magnus was convinced all stones are formed where they are found through "some force of the configuration of heaven," that in “regions of the Pyrenees” rainwater turns to stone, that "reliable reports" mention a spring in Sweden that turns everything dipped in it to stone, and that "sigils" - signs on stones showing the markings of leaves – indicate that those stones have medicinal properties. Other natural philosophers attributed fossils to a vague "lapidifying virtue", a “plastick virtue" or "moulding force", an inherent Aristotelian characteristic of the Earth.

At a time of very limited knowledge of skeletons and anatomy, the principle of comparative anatomy was not as obvious at it seems today, with so little collected physical evidence to go on. A tooth of St Christopher venerated in Italy turned out to be a mammoth molar.The long-venerated bones of the founding fathers of Christianity on the island of Cyprus turned out to be those of pygmy hippos.

A 1538 illustration from a work by Swiss naturalist Conrad Gesner, a contemporary of Palissy, notes the similarity between "tongue stones" and the teeth of living sharks. We know understand these "tongue stones" to be fossil sharks' teeth.

Invertebrate fossils were even harder to interpret – their soft tissue is rarely preserved, only the hard shells survive, often less recognisable. The numerous internal cast fossils of the innards of the fossil shrimp Branchiopoda, preserved in abundance in strata in Michigan after its shell had rotted away, were easily mistaken by European settlers as the petrified trackway of ancient deer. The spines of sea urchins seldom survive fossilisation, so what remains is their inner shell. When these were dug up inland they were taken to be “fairy loaves” because of their resemblance to a roundish loaf of bread.

German philosopher, scientist and mathematician Gottfried Wilhelm Von Leibniz (1646-1716) reconstructed mammoth bones as a unicorn. As late as 1850, fossil mammals were still being interpreted as mythical beasts. It’s noteworthy that the serious investigation of fossils and their origins really took after the invention of printing, which made comparison of specimens much easier.

That the most obvious explanation is probably the best one was an alien concept in the days when scholarship was the preserve of a very narrow elite, their thinking dominated by the study of Aristotle and the fathers of natural philosophy.

Into this world of stone simulacra spontaneously generated by the Aristotelian “wetness” or “dryness” stepped a proto-fortean outsider, heretic, polymath, dissident and genius Bernard Palissy, who by accident stumbled across the truth about what fossils were. He was not the first and certainly not the last in a long line of thinkers who played a part on the gradual process of figuring out fossils and who did their bit in overturning the prevailing fashionable scientific Establishment paradigm.

Palissy breaks up his furniture to feed the furnace of his kiln, an illustration by Tasei Ijenden from Lives of the Great People of the Occident, Tokyo, 1870, out of copyright.

Palissy was a surveyor (his most profitable side-hustle), a worker in stained glass, a potter and a builder of aqueducts who hadn’t even learned Greek or Latin but whose programme of public lectures would later inspire the foundation of the Academie Francaise. Despite enjoying the patronage and protection of the Queen Mother of France, Pallisy became a martyr to his beliefs, refusing to recant when facing life imprisonment in old age in the Bastille. Although it wasn’t for any scientific heresy about fossils that Pallisy was condemned, but for his Protestantism.

He was some 40 years ahead of his time in setting up a Parisian "Little Academy 'at which he gave paid-for lectures on a variety of subjects. One of the regular attendees was a young English University of Paris student named Francis Bacon, who was greatly influenced by Palissy’s ideas, in particular Palissy’s assertion that "Practice is the source of theory... By experiment I prove in several places that the theory of several philosophers is false, even of the most renowned and the most ancient."

Bernard Palissy was born into a French family of modest means around 1510. Speculation places his birth at either the town of Saintes, in the Charente region of Aquitaine (Western France) and not far from the Protestant stronghold of La Rochelle, or possible la Chapelle-Biron, near Agen or in the nearby glassworkers' settlement in the woods in Agenois.

He certainly spent much of his early life around Saintes. His father was poor, but of "noble birth" and Bernard inherited his father's profession of painter in stained glass and a manufacturer of roof tiles. This was at a time when fashions in church decoration meant that the demand for stained glass was falling, with plain glass becoming more fashionable, so Bernard struggled to make a living. His education in literature and maths was of a high standard for the time, later landing him surveying work.

Contemporary illustration of Palissy, artist unknown, out of copyright.

It was as a semi-itinerant stained glass painter that the young Palissy wandered across France for at least five years starting from 1525, a voyage that took in Nimes, the southwest, the Paris region, through the and the Pyrenees and onward to Antwerp and Brest, possibly even into the Netherlands and into Germany.

It was while travelling to find work that he came across whole strata of the petrified shells of sea creatures. He later noted that the flood from Genesis would have left just a layer of dead seashells at the tops of mountains as the waters receded after 40 days – but here in the mountains was layer upon layer of seashells – if you hacked into that bed of seashells there were just more and more of them underneath. Bernard eventually settled in Saintes in 1535 as a glazier and painter in stained glass. He married in 1539 at the age of 29 and went on to have six children.

One day in Saintes, so the probably embellished story goes, Palissy was shown a small cup made of enamelled pottery, which had probably come from Italy or possibly have been majolica earthenware from Spain, via Italy. In any event, such techniques were unknown at the time in France. He was transfixed, he found the cup “enamelled with so much beauty the from that time I entered into controversy with my own thoughts... I began to think that if I should discover how to make enamels I could make earthen vessels and other things very prettily.” He vowed to his make it his life’s mission to recreate that enamel glaze on pottery, becoming "Pallisy the potter".

He built a kiln near his home and threw all his resources into experimenting with exotic and expensive glazes at high temperatures for the next six years. Palissy later described this as a time of being "wonderfully” poor" and "despised... as one little better than a madman." He recalled smashing up and burning the "tables and floorboards of my house" to fuel the kiln, although this story is probably an invention.

Palissy's Final Experiment, unknown, 19th century, out of copyright

In 1543 King Francois ordered a new - much-hated - salt tax, whose orderly administration required a survey of the salt marshes around Saintonge, near Saintes. Palissy spent most of the next year carrying out the survey, the fee for which allowed him to renew his efforts into finding that perfect white enamel, using higher temperature glass blowing kilns with more success.

Palissy "began to look for enamels as a man gropes in the dark." In his ten-year search (or sixteen years according to some versions), he in his own words “blundered many times at a great expense... pounding and grinding new materials and constructing new furnaces, which cost much money and consumed my wood and my time... I fooled away several years with sorrow and sighs.” Eventually, out of the glass furnace he pulled a shard with "a suitably beautiful white enamel."

There followed seven months in secret learning to work clay. In his third furnace he discovered the earthenware came out encrusted with jagged bits, the local clay being so flinty. Clay from other regions of France solved that problem.

It's not clear whether Palissy had actually cracked his quest for the perfect enamel, although he claimed to have. At around this time, though, he began to produce rustiques figurlines (“rusticware”, later known as Palissyware). This caught the eye of the Constable (later Duke of) Montmorency, who was in the area on a punitive expedition against a salt tax rebellion. Montmorency had seen some fine examples of Palissy’s “rusticware” in local manor houses and on the strength of these commissioned Palissy to build retreats on his estates.

"Rusticware" attributed to Pallisy, although the attribution of many Pallisyware pieces is uncertain. This one is in the Wallace Collection. Photo: Matt Salusbury

The striking Palissyware took the form of sumptuous dishes and bowls in natural colours, with mouldings and reliefs in the shape of a cornucopia of creatures - usually frogs, snakes, snails, small fish, plants, bugs, tortoises, crustaceans and seashells from the local Santoigne marshes, painted in a smooth glossy glaze that resembled their glossy skin. He used coloured lead glazes, lead silicates with added oxides of copper, cobalt, manganese or iron with tin added.

The animals depicted on Palissyware were extraordinarily realistic – because they were actually cast from moulds made from dead animals. These included impressions taken from fossils of the shells of long-extinct Tertiary gastropods from the Paris basin. He took his secret of how he cast these creatures "from life", with no signs of harm, to the grave.

Through making moulds for his pottery using the real bodies of recently dead animals, Palissy quickly grasped that a similar process was at work in nature – sediments formed around the remains of plants and animals and over time these solidified into rock-hard fossils – particularly the hard shells of invertebrates. There were no stones forming within stones, nor was some sort of Aristotelian natural mechanism at work that threw up spontaneous forms or through “wetness” or “dryness” petrified still living animals or brought them back to life again. The great philosophers were wrong.

It was around the time that his Palissyware began to take off that he converted to Protestantism and became one of the founders of the Reformed Church of Saintes, after holding meetings in his studio.

Another "rusticware" piece attributed to Palissy in the Wallace Collection, photo: Matt Salusbury

After 16 years mostly in poverty, Palissy suddenly found rich patrons. As well as Montmerency, the Count of Maulevrier, the Montpensiers and the Valois family all employed him to decorate their palaces, grottos and gardens. Palissy spent a while working on tiles for Montmorenci’s new palace, Chateau d’Ecouen. He came to the attention of the Queen Mother, Catherine de Medici, the powerful regent of France during the minority of her son Charles IX. Catherine’s accounts for 1570 include, "To Bernard, Nicholas and Mathurin Palissys, sculptors in earth, the sum of 2600 livres for all the baked and enamelled work which were required for the completion of the four bridges which lead to the grotto commenced for the queen, in her palace near the Louvre".

The laying out of royal gardens at Tuileries in Paris, a project originally for the Constable of Paris, was quickly taken over by Catherine, who employed Palissy on it. He became "Bernard of the Tuileries". His work on landscape planning became important in the development of forestry conservation.

Palissy's aristocratic clients issued him safe conducts to complete his work. But his openly expressed views identified him as a Protestant. His enemies broke into his pottery studio at a time when they knew that Palissy’s client Sire de Pons, the king’s lieutenant in Saintogne, would be away. They destroyed the studio and arrested Palissy for Calvinism. He was imprisoned first in Saintes and then in Bordeaux. His protectors managed to have him moved from Bordeaux - away from the vindictive Bordeaux Parliament - and to prison in Paris. There he wrote his first book, Recepte véritable par laquelle tous les hommes de la France pourront apprendre à multiplier et augmenter leurs trésors (True recipe by which all the men of France will be able to learn to multiply and increase their treasures), published shortly after his release in 1563.

In Recepte véritable, Palissy recalled how walking among rocks around the town of Saintes, he came across "stones which are made in the manner of a sheep's horn, not so long nor so curved, but commonly are arched" are about half a foot long. Years later a citizen of Saintes gifted him "one of the said stones, which was half open, and had certain indentations, which joined admirably one in the other." From then on, Palissy “knew that the said stone had been at other times a fish shell, of which we no longer see any. And we must estimate and believe that this kind of fish has frequented other times in the sea of Saintogne: because there are a great number of said stones, but the kind of fish has been lost" - through over-fishing, he speculated.

Palissy the Potter, artist unknown, 19th century, London, out of copyright.

Palissy commented “how ignorant people assert that nature or the sky created [the fossils] by celestial influences”. He posed the question, "Why do we find so many fragments of shells between two layers of stones, if not because these shells already deposited on the beach were covered with a land thrown back by the sea, which land then came." He argued that minerals, dissolving into water to form “congelative water,” would precipitate and thereby petrify once living organisms in order to create fossils. He even observed that a recently dead sea urchin was beginning to shed its spines, making it more closely resemble the "fairy loaves" of its fossil form.

A "fairy loaf", once popularly believed to be the petrified bread of the fairies. We now know these are fossil sea urchins. This one's in the collection of Dunwich Museum. Photo by the author.

Montmorenci persuaded Catherine to declare Palissy a "royal servant", which shielded Palissy from the 1572 St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, after which he laid low in Sedan, returning to Paris two years later. It was there that he started the Little Academy, lecturing on subjects as diverse as fountains, drinking water, alchemy, metallurgy, the causes of earthquakes and volcanos and fossils. These were a great success and continued to 1584.

The Little Academy included a cabinet of curiosities – fossils, shells and natural history illustration. He describes spoil form roadworks in La Rochelle containing chunks of rock so crowded with shells he couldn'g put a knife between them. He employed "a score of women and children" to hunt fossil shellfish him.

During his Little Academy period, Palissy wrote his second book, Discours admirables de la Nature des Eaux et Fontaines tant naturelles qu'artificielles des métaux, des sels et salines, des pierres, des terres, du feu et des émaux (Admirable Discourse on the Nature of Waters and Fountains, both Natural and Artificial, Metals, Salts and Salines, Stones, Earths, Fire and Enamels), a collections of his lectures which appeared in 1580. The Admirable Discourse described in detail his theories on fossils, along with rants about “immodest” contemporary fashion and condemnations of doctors prescribing gold dust to patients.

The Biblical deluge, felt Palissy, had been of too short a duration to explain seashells on mountain tops. He’d heard of a cliff high in the Apennine Mountains where shells are hacked out of the bottom, the beginning and the middle of a deep fossil bed. He asked, “By what door the sea entered to place the said shells in the middle of the hardest rock".

Bernard Pallisy in later life, artist unknown, out of copyright.

Arrested again in 1586, Palissy was banished to Sedan in 1587. He breached the terms of his exile and returned to Paris the following year, where he was arrested yet again and condemned to death. One of his admirers, the Duke of Mayenne, tried to obstruct and delay his trial for the next four years. His friends succeeded in having Palissy’s death sentence commuted to life imprisonment. King Henry III visited Palissy, then aged 79, in the Bastille, where it is said Palissy rejected the King's offer of a pardon if he converted to Catholicism. Palissy also gave help and comfort to younger Protestant prisoners, at great personal risk. He died of "hunger, cold and poor treatment" in the Bastille in around 1589.

Palissy's lack of Greek or Latin meant he didn't enjoy an international audience. But some 30 years after the young Francis Bacon had attended Palissy's Little Academy, Bacon’s Novum Organum (1620) became the basis for what's now known as the Baconian Method for scientific investigation, partly inspired by Palissy. Another attendee at Palissy's little academy had been Pierre de la Priumaudaye, the presumed author of the book series Academie Francaise - an attempt at an encyclopaedic work begun in 1618, including a "notable description of the whole world". Naturalist Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon (1707-1788), author of the groundbreaking 36-volume Histoire Naturelle also read and was influenced by Palissy's works.

A statue of Palissy by Louis-Ernest Barras at the National Museum of Ceramics, Sevres, France. Note the ammonite by his left foot.

© Matt Salusbury 2021

Further reading:

Oeuvres de Bernard Palissy, Rualt, Paris, 1777,

"Bernard Palissy : artiste, savant, écrivain et naturaliste de la Renaissance", Aurélien Morhain, Ouest Paleo,

Prehistoric Mammals and Fossils, Micheal Smith, Ladybird, Loughborough, 1974

The Book of Minerals, Albertus Magnus

The Revolution in Geology from the Renaissance to the Enlightenment, Gary D. Rosenberg (ed.), Geological Society of America Memoir, Boulder, Colorado, 2009

On Generation and Corruption, Aristotle,

"The Bacon brothers in France", Peter Dawkins, Francis Bacon Research Trust 2020.

The Rise of the Mammals, Dr Michael Benton, The Apple Press/Quarto Pubs, 1991

Bernard Palissy the Huguenot Potter, Annie E Keeling, Wesleyan Conference Office, London 1881

Palissy the Potter, Henry Morley, Chapman and Hall, London, 1885

The Story of Palissy the Potter (Lessons from Noble Lives), T. Nelson and Sons, London, 1875











Three more "rusticware" pieces attributed to Palissy, or possibly "school of Palissy", at the Wallace Museum. Photos: Matt Salusbury